It’s the most wonderful day of the year, in Split.

It’s the second week of May. People from all around Croatia and the world are flooding in to Split. Bright and early in the morning, the Riva is already filled with people securing a spot to enjoy the day’s festivities. Mass is happening at one end by Prokurative, and the market has overflown into and across the street on the other, selling special souvenirs and toys for the holiday. Colorful flags brighten up even the narrowest alleys throughout the Palace. The celebration steeped in tradition has the city in a buzz.

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It’s Saint Dominius Day, and the most wonderful day of the year. Well, I wouldn’t know how Christmas is celebrated here, but Saint Dominius Day, or St Duje for short, is certainly an important and popular holiday that attracts visitors from all around the countries to make the trek over to the Dalmatian city. Saint Dominius is the patron saint of Split. The day dedicated in his honor is celebrated from morning til night.

I’m not sure if we thought we would “beat the crowds” or if we just wanted to see what all the fuss was about, but we decided to head out early. The very streets we frolicked through every day…well, there was no room for frolicking on this day. As the sun beat down on the city, crowds formed on the Riva. Every single table and every single café was occupied by sunglasses and big hats. Mass was being broadcasted throughout the city center, and from the stage grew an audience that forged into the crowds shopping along the row of stands lining the waterfront.

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The people-watching was as interesting as actually shopping. We met local teenagers enjoying the influx of people in their city. A couple from Canada who had no idea it was a holiday on their day trip in Split. Parents and children from all around, enjoying the festivities.

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Every child had a wooden butterfly toy – a stick with wheels at the end, and as they rolled it along, the wings would flap, or rather, clap. Wooden souvenirs seemed to be a theme not only with toys, but also with adults. Countless stands sold a variety of wooden utensils. Some quite functional while others were rather ornate.

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We eventually managed to weave ourselves into Peristil. And while deciding where to go next, the procession comes to us. To be completely honest, I still don’t really know what was going on, but I’m happy to have been in the right place at the right time, catching them right as they filed into the cathedral.

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Marmont Street was also bustling with activity. We had just missed the food event at the fish market, but crowds still lingered. A group of four teenagers started up a brass quartet, and festive music drifted through the crowds. Where were we headed? Luka. For a moment of peace, an escape from the intense crowds, though it became evident we weren’t the only ones with that idea, judging from the line extending from the ice cream counter.

Nevertheless, a brilliant detour.

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I decided that today was as good a day to stock up on souvenirs. After mentally preparing myself to brave the heat and the crowds, we headed back toward Riva to explore the stands.

I always look for things that are handcrafted and interesting. Things that not only hold the memories of a trip, but also are useful, aesthetic, and that I would genuinely like regardless of where it is from. I also love shopping for other people, getting trinkets that are perfect for friends, and of course edible souvenirs for sharing (but that would be dealt with much later on in this trip).

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Basically, I ended up buying a lot of wooden souvenirs. After all, that’s what this holiday was all about. I didn’t buy a spoon though. Though I did seriously think about getting a plain wooden spoon as a gift, just for the laughs.

They had everything from local brandies to lavender sachets to the traditional decorated hearts that I saw in Zagreb.

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And then there was all of the toys. Traditional wooden toys, the glossy colorful paint glistening in the sun. I felt like I was transported to a different decade. A simpler time, happiness in a purer form.

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As the sun set, the festivities shifted. Tombola, a city-wide bingo-like lottery game was underway. And outdoor concerts were still to come. The mood was still high, though my energy level was not. The most wonderful day of the year was coming to and end. And by the time we woke up the next day, the crowds had long dispersed. But here and there traces of the colorful festivities remained. And I’ll always picture Split adorned with colorful flags flapping in the breeze.

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