When it comes to beef noodle soup, there are endless options in Taiwan. As the pride and joy of Taiwan, the dish is pervasive. But if you’re serious about beef noodle soup, you go to a specialty store. How do you know a specialty beef noodle soup joint is good? It has no frills and a long line out the door onto the street. Case in point: Liao Jia. This noodle soup has been around for decades and has built up a cult following among locals. Their key differentiator is the braised beef in light broth. While many other places either special in light or dark broth, or offer both, Liao Jia only has one thing, but they do it well. The rich flavors of the soy braise in the meat is nicely balanced and complemented by the more mild and nuanced spice notes in the broth.

The menu is simple, and they make it easy. You can get beef noodle soup, or just noodles (no meat) in beef broth, just meat (no noodles) in broth, or even just broth. They have a few stewed and braised sides, and minced pork noodles (I suppose to appease any non-beef eaters). And some fans, AC for hot days, stools crowded around tables in a narrow dining space. And little else. It’s easy to miss if you don’t know what you’re looking for, but thankfully, everyone else knows what they’re looking for so you can just get in line.