Ahgoo’s Kitchen is one of those IYKYK kinds of places. A sleeper hit that has a cult following among locals and some dedicated foodies through underground networks. But hasn’t exploded (yet, thankfully). Ahgoo is a funny name for anyone who doesn’t speak Taiwanese/Fujianese/Hokkien — it basically means uncle (as in your mother’s brother – not to be confused with your father’s brother). So Ahgoo’s Kitchen translates to “uncle’s kitchen” which is fitting.

It’s homey in the least aesthetic way. Questionable decor. Like very little thought was put into the ambience. They just found a place and started cooking. There’s not even a sign! Well, there is a sign on the window, but the big sign that you can street is for a restaurant that closed long ago, for a Chinese American restaurant (Ye Loy) generations ago that was eventually taken over by Chinese immigrants and then closed down and reopened as Ahgoo, a Taiwanese restaurant formerly located in a sleepy strip mall in an quiet block of El Monte, now run by mostly mainland Chinese staff. How’s that for SGV history?

Yet in spite of all that, or perhaps because of that, they serve up some of the best of the cuisine in the region. Their claim to fame is their fluffy thick scallion bing, fresh made each day and pan fried to order. But everything on the (relatively short, for Chinese restaurant standards) menu is solid. Get something stir fried or a soup or cold dish (depending on the season) to go with the bread.