snapshots
from
kyoto
DECEMBER 2022
Kyoto is picturesque as, well, insert any expletive. Its undeniably beautiful. Annoyingly so. Because we’ve all seen it. In magazines, on social media. A world’s love letter to a place that we’re all sick of seeing and yet.
And yet.
We return again and again, and Japan delivers every damn time.
I like long trips. Travels long enough to gain familiarity. To steep in a place long enough to feel a part of it.
Sadly my trips to Kansai have been short. A tease that keeps me wanting more.
I first visited Kyoto as a day trip from Osaka. Hardly long enough to even get oriented. And bussed around in a tour, not having to think about anything. Just dropping in and disappearing, attraction after attraction.
This time, it was a little longer. Three days, two nights. Just enough to get oriented, and to leave with so many more reasons to return.
We took a train up from Osaka after breakfast, and made it into Kyoto early afternoon.
After checking into the hotel, the first stop was to grab lunch. At a place called Lorimer. Because I am the person who goes halfway around the world just to go to a restaurant named after a street 3 blocks away from my own apartment.
Well after peak lunch hour on a weekday, we were the only ones at the restaurant. But the simple menu was prepared with care by a very diligent staff. And truthfully, I was riding on the high of the meal being half the price of the same meal in Brooklyn.
The rest of the afternoon was spent leisurely exploring the central district. A coffee break at Here Coffee. A brief interlude into Shin Puh Kan and the Ace Hotel. Shopping along Sanjo-dori and Teramachi before dinner at Yakiniku Kinoe.
I guess it never occurred to me that KBBQ would be translated to yakiniku in Japanese, but this was a Korean-ish barbecue situation with Japanese flair and finesse.
The weather was not on our side. On the day that was meant to be our outside exploration day, the forecast gave us rain. But I wasn’t going to let rain, well, rain on my parade. The day was spent constantly chasing clear skies, checking weather sources for rain, adjusting and rearranging the itinerary in reaction to the clouds.
We opted to go to Arashiyama first. The skies played nice for a bit. The clouds were dramatic, but sun shone through like glimmers of hope. Enough time to walk through Tenryu-ji and along the main paths before ducking into Bread Espresso & right as it started to rain.
impeccable vibes aside, this was also the best iced espresso i’ve ever had in my life
Even overcast and gloomy and cold, it was beautiful. A certain kind of peace that only winter brings. And a sudden understanding of how people of the past learned to appreciate the beauty of every season.
Arashiyama gives small town vibes. It feels so far away from the city, from reminders of contemporary life. It transports you to a different time, a different reality. It’s no wonder it is a famous filming location, no wonder it has become a destination travelers from all around the world seek out, chasing a feeling of novel nostalgia.
And there are so many cute storefronts that just add to the charm.
Then it was back into the city to Gion in the afternoon. Walking up an overcast, slightly drizzling Hanamikoji Street and making our way up to Kiyomizu-dera right as the sun showed face again.
The streets up to the temple were crowded but not overly packed. With so much to look at, so many distractions luring you in before you reach the top, it was a true test of focus to make it to the temple before it got too late.
By the time we reached the Kiyomizu-dera, the skies were clearing and winter sunlight cast some warmth across the scenery. With panoramic views of the city below, it felt like peering into another world, even though the geographical distance is relatively close.
even in the winter, even ridden with crowds, this temple was stunning. and it really makes me wonder what it would have been like to visit during peak autumn leaves season, before tourists came back. the few red leaves that remained were still cute though.
stopped by for a tea break while watching the sun set over the city
The dusk made for a dreamy light as we made our way back down. As the crowds dispersed and the paths became more peaceful, the cool background lit up by warm light glowing from quiet storefronts. Almost felt like walking through a movie set.
For dinner, a hot bowl of ramen at a tiny shop. There was a short line out the door, but service moved quickly, and in a way, it felt validating to know that the noodles were worth waiting for. One of the chefs was American, Californian, and came over to chat. It was cozy, warm, welcoming. The perfect end to a packed day.
The next morning, after breakfast at the hotel, we ventured to Nishiki Market for some shopping, and then walked up to Honke Owariya for one final lunch before packing up and taking a train all the way down to KIX.
I can’t wait to come back.
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