Taiwan Guide | Tainan 台南: weekend trip itinerary

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weekend trip: tainan 台南

the correct choice when looking for an easy and fulfilling side trip from taipei

If you have the time to go to any other city in Taiwan for longer than a day trip, make it be Tainan. The small but vibrant city in the south of Taiwan is steeped in history and culture. What is lacks in scale it more than makes up in substance. There’s a wealth of attractions, preserved from various parts of its history. From narrow alleyways with traditional city architecture, centuries old temples, open markets and endless hole in wall eateries, Tainan is a treasure trove of traditional delights.

It’s easy to fill your weekend with art, culture, history and culinary delight, and leave more for a future trip. It’s a popular destination for locals as well: Taiwanese visitors flock to the city for the traditional and contemporary food scene. There’s cute little cafes hidden in the alleys, famous old school shops doling out Tainan specialties where you can indulge while spending but coins.

The people are warm, streets cozy, the food sweet. Generations of visitors have been captivated by the city. A weekend in Tainan is a weekend well spent.

GETTING THERE | THINGS TO DO | MAPS + ITINERARY

GETTING HERE

Getting to Tainan is easy from any major city on the west side. By high speed rail (HSR), it’s less than two hours from Taipei. From the HSR station, you’ll want to take a cab into the city center.

By train, it’s 3-4 hours depending on if you get an express train, and a bit cheaper than the HSR, and drops you in Tainan station in the city center (and is great if you are stopping at a local station instead). Both the HSR and train are pretty scenic rides down. There’s also plenty of long distance buses that go from the city hubs. It’s the cheapest option, but subject to the traffic patterns so not the best choice for a trip where you want to maximize your time in the destination.

Local transit is mostly buses and taxis. There’s also some ride share options now (Uber), but in the city center or at major attractions it may be faster to hail a cab.

WHERE TO STAY

There’s many choices when it comes to hotels in Tainan, and a range of options that cover just about any budget. For a weekend trip, you’ll be best served staying in the West Central District, perfect for wandering around the commercial and food hubs by foot, and easy to get to other attractions by cab.

Budget: Civil Life Guesthouse, Chung Fu Inn

Mid: Grand Banyon Hotel, UIJ Hotel, Hotel Cozzi

Luxury: Silks Palace, Shangri-La Far Eastern

view from the roof of Grand Banyon Hotel

entrance to UIJ hotel & hostel

THINGS TO DO

There’s dozens of ways you can organize an itinerary for Tainan. If there’s a better weather day, use that for more of the outdoor sites. For less than ideal weather, fill your day with eats, museums and shopping. Organize the day geographically, starting in one place and wandering toward another, or spending half a day in one part of town and another hitting several spots in another. Break up tourist attraction stops with meals and snacks (or vice versa). There’s no wrong answer.

EXPLORE: ANPING DISTRICT 安平

In this historic district on the west end of the city is a concentration of some of the most popular historical attractions in the city.

Start at Anping Fort, a 17th century construction originally built by the Dutch during their colonial rule. The well-preserved structure offers a glimpse into Taiwan’s colonial past and provides panoramic views of the surrounding area. The surrounding grounds and fortress walls make for a nice walk (in spite of the battleground overtones).

Then go to the Former Tait & Co. Merchant House, once the site of the British trading company in the 1800s, and adjacent Anping Tree House, a warehouse structure that has been overtaken by the native banyan trees. The Merchant House is now a museum, while the (admittedly more popular) tree house is a captivating structure covered in banyan tree roots, intertwined with the building structure over the centuries, a surreal example of nature reclaiming civilization.

And then there’s the Eternal Golden Castle, or Fort Zeelandia Republica. The red-brick fortress stands as a tribute to the original Fort Zeelandia, which was once the headquarters of the Dutch East India Company. Inside are exhibits and artifacts showcasing the history of the area, the Dutch colonial period and the early days of Taiwan’s maritime trade.

While you’re there, spend some time walking along the harbor and wharf, a great place for catching the sunset. Peruse the shops along Anping Old Street to pick up souvenirs and local delicacies. There are some famous spots for Tainan specialty foods in the area as well, like beef soup and shrimp rolls.

Anping is an easy place to spend a few hours of the afternoon. Tickets are modestly priced and there’s plenty to see outside of the museums and monuments as well.

SEE: CHIKAN LOU 赤嵌樓

In the heart of the city’s historic district is the iconic landmark Chi Kan Lou, also known as Fort Provintia, another relic of the Dutch colonial era.

Originally constructed in the 17th century as part of the Dutch East India Company’s defensive fortifications, its strategic location near the coast played a crucial role in protecting the Dutch trading interests in the region. The architectural style uniquely blends European and Chinese influences with brick walls, intricate carvings, and ornate details showcasing the craftsmanship of the time. Inside the fort is now a museum that dives into the history of the city and its complex relations between locals, colonizers and indigenous groups. From the fort you also get panoramic views of the city.

Chikan Lou is pretty small, so likely won’t take more than an hour or so. Be sure to budget some extra time to explore the nearby streets and alleys, where you’ll find quaint cafes, art galleries, and traditional shops.

WANDER: THE MANY SHOPPING STREETS

In addition to An Ping’s Old Street there are many more nooks of the city that are worth perusing for street eats, local crafts, little boutiques, cafes and more.

Hai An Road 海安路: This is one of the bigger roads that runs through the district but the blocks around Section 1 and Section 2 of the road are filled with local gems. The street itself is also home to many pieces of public art from murals to large scale sculptures and installations.

Shennong Street 神農街: Right in the heart of Tainan’s West Central District, Shennong Street is a charming, lantern-adorned pedestrian-friendly street lined with historic buildings. Once a hub for merchant trade during the Qing dynasty, it is now a great place to explore local arts and handmade crafts in the shops and sit down for coffee or tea in the cafes.

Snail Alley 蝸牛巷: Taiwanese people love a theme, and as the name suggests, Snail Alley (also known as Xinyi Street, which is also in the West Central District), is a narrow lane filled with little snail motifs. Tucked away in the alley are several tiny shops, bakeries and cafes. It’s “hidden” from the bustling main streets but there’s ample signage. Well worth a little detour to walk through.

Guo Hua street 國華街: There’s a few blocks of Guo Hua Street extending south from Yong Le Market that is bustling with activity (as in, you’ll be dodging motor scooters and cars as you make your way down the street). The street evokes traditional market vibes, with loud signage and awnings extending over the shopfront goods along the sides of the streets, perfect for quick pit stops by motor scooter. The street has many of Tainan’s famed culinary eats, casual small bites that work as a quick snack, or, if you make your way around several vendors, a highly interactive meal.

Kongmiao Shopping District 孔廟商圈: Next to its namesake Confucian Temple (in Chinese, Kongmiao), this pedestrian friendly district is filled with boutiques, vintage shops, cafes, traditional food stalls and small creative vendors. It’s a popular spot for locals and visitors looking to peruse the crafts of independent local designers, pick up a unique gift and grab snacks from the vendors nearby. There are also so many choices when it comes to cute cafes and dessert spots, perfect for an afternoon pick me up. It skews artsy and artisanal, a welcome contrast to the more commercial parts of the city nearby.

CULTURE FIX: Art Museums & Culture Parks

Like many other Taiwanese cities, there are ample spaces dedicated to art and culture. Pick a couple that work with your itinerary and spend some time exploring the vibrant local art scene.

Tainan Art Museum 台南美術館: This local art institution is divided into two parts. Building 1 resides in a converted art deco police station from the Japanese colonial era and features rotating exhibitions of local and international artists. The larger Building 2 occupies a contemporary construction and is dedicated to showcasing Tainan’s rich artistic heritage through its permanent collection.

Memorial Hall of Shitao Ye 葉石濤文學紀念館: While there’s an entire museum nearby dedicated to literature, for a more, shall we say casual appreciator of the literary arts it perhaps makes more sense to do a brief stroll through the Memorial Hall of Shitao Ye, a renowned Taiwanese writer. The institution hosts exhibits that showcase Ye’s life works and the significance of his contribution.

Shuijiaoshe Cultural Zone 水交社文化園區: Once a military village, the historic buildings have found new life as art galleries and studios for the local creative industry in an effort to foster artistic innovation and community. The area is fairly quiet on weekdays, but sometimes hosts events and gets more foot traffic on weekends. Otherwise it makes for a pretty peaceful walk on a pleasant day.

Blueprint Culture & Creative Park 藍晒圖文創園區: This vibrant, mural adorned enclave across the street from a highly commercial block Shin Kong Mitsukoshi and some of the nicest hotels in the city is a mini hub for art and design. The repurposed industrial complex hosts art exhibitions, design markets and cultural events, but is also home to permanent concept shops, trendy cafes and restaurants that make for a nice stop if you’re in the area.

Tainan Cultural and Creative Park 臺南文化創意產業園區: Adjacent to the Tainan main train station is another cultural park in what used to be the administrative branch for the Taiwan Tobacco and Alcohol Bureau. Compared to other such culture complexes around Taiwan this one is more of a venue, traffic highly dependent on the exhibitions. Generally more quiet unless there’s an event happening.

SHOP: FOR SOUVENIRS AT HAYASHI DEPARTMENT STORE 林百貨

Hayashi Department Store isn’t really a department store, at least not in the general contemporary Taiwanese society sense. It’s more of a historic landmark, an expansive, well-curated one stop souvenir shop in an impeccably preserved building with a storied past that once was the second largest department store in Taiwan during the Japanese colonial era.

Restored in 2013, the current store is focused on showcasing and celebrating local culture and creative goods that Taiwanese people love oh so much. Each floor is filled with local Tainan goods and other traditional Taiwanese crafts, ranging from nostalgic traditional foods to artisanal pantry staples to homeware, clothing and accessories. They also often have seasonal collaborations and pop ups in the space.

The roof also holds a Shinto Shrine, against a backdrop of the cityscape beyond. And there’s a cafe for a pick me up (but honestly, come for the shopping, go to one of the many little cafes in the alleys of the neighborhood for a less crowded experience).

SEE: Temples & Other Historic Sites

Throughout the city are several temples and historic sites that offer a glimpse into its past, integrated into contemporary life in Tainan. Many temples in the city are an active part of daily life for locals so always be respectful of worshippers and rituals when visiting.

Tainan Wu Garden 吳園藝文中心: Also known as Wu Yuan Cultural Center, this little garden is a serene oasis in the heart of the city. The beautifully landscaped grounds showcases traditional Chinese architecture and features stunning bonsai trees, lotus ponds, and pavilions.

Nanmen Park 南門公園: This small historic park is home to one of the few remaining city gates from the Qing dynasty. Not necessarily a destination to go out of your way for but certainly worth a detour if you’re in the area for a nice stroll through the tree shaded park.

Confucius Temple 臺南孔廟: Perhaps the most famous temple in the city, this 1600s temple dedicated to Confucius is in the heart of the city. The wonderfully preserved and temple features traditional architectural details, beautiful courtyards, and tranquil gardens.

Tainan Wude Hall 臺南武德殿: Next to the Confucius Temple is a Japanese style construction that honors the Five Lords of War and traditional martial arts. The hall showcases elaborate sculptures, ancient weaponry, and vibrant displays of martial arts performances.

Kaijiyu Temple 開基玉皇宮: Also known as the Temple of the Jade Emperor, this Taoist temple has colorful ornate architectural embellishments and intricate wood carvings.

Siden Wu Temple 臺灣祀典武廟: Another notable temple is the Siden Wu Temple, dedicated to Guan Yu, the God of War and a symbol of loyalty, righteousness and bravery. The grand halls are adorned with intricate statues and religious art.

DO: GO TO THE NIGHT MARKET

Night markets in the south hit different. When the sun goes down and the city lights up, night markets spark to life. Vast lots filled with row after row of vendors. Lit up by neon signs and blinding florescent lights. The smells of various street foods mingling together. People flocking in by motorbike. Every generation. Waiting patiently in lines. Hunching over small bowls on the low tables. The slow shuffle from one row to the next, carried by the momentum of the crowd. Overwhelming and delighting all the senses. And then disappearing when the morning comes.

The most famous one in Tainan is, by a long shot, Garden Night Market 花園夜市 in the north district. One of the biggest in Taiwan, the open air market is in business on Thursday, Saturday and Sunday nights. Hundred of stalls cater everything from Taiwanese street food classics to new trendy experimental fare.

The market is shopping, dining and leisure all in one. There’s four zones, for food, fashion, general goods and recreation. It caters to the whims of bored teenagers as well as it does multigenerational families seeking to feed and entertain the kids for an evening.

Vendors sell cheap clothes, house goods, toys and kitschy stuff. Not really a place to come to shop specifically (compared to the more fast-fashion adjacent markets of Taipei), but you may be tempted to pick up a quirky souvenir or gag gift.

For food, like any other night market, your best bet is to follow the crowds. Look at the places too busy to hail your attention, the ones with the loud signs of how they were featured on some TV show, recommended on some local media publication. Whether grabbing food to much on as you walk or sitting down for a bite, you can a la carte your way to a bountiful meal with but a couple hundred NT. So come hungry, bring cash, plan on spending the first half hour getting your bearings, and you’ll be sure to leave full and fulfilled. The perfect way to end a day in Tainan.

Most people come by motor scooter, but for visitors who don’t have a local friend to catch a ride, your best bet is probably to take a cab. There’s also a bus 0 that goes from the main train station to the night market.

On Monday, Tuesday and Friday nights go to Dadong night Market 大東夜市 in the east district, the second largest night market. Wusheng Night Market 武聖夜市 is open on Wednseday and Saturdays, a bit smaller but the most centrally located. Anping also has a small night market Xin Yong Hua Night Market 新永華夜市 on Thursdays and Saturdays.

venture further out

If you have extra time on your way out, there are some notable attractions a bit further out.

Taijiang National Park 台江國家公園: a coastal treasure on the west coast, this park encompasses a vast area that includes wetlands, estuaries, and coastal landscapes. It’s a haven for birdwatching enthusiasts, as migratory birds make their temporary homes in the park during certain seasons. The park also provides opportunities for hiking, cycling, and boating, allowing visitors to explore its diverse ecosystems and enjoy breathtaking views of the ocean.

National Museum of Taiwan History 國立臺灣歷史博物館: The large museum might be kind of in the middle of nowhere, but it’s a destination that tour buses flock to. iThe museum showcases the island’s history from ancient times to the present day through its extensive collection of artifacts, exhibits, and interactive displays. Visitors can delve into Taiwan’s diverse ethnic groups, explore archaeological finds, and gain insights into the island’s colonial past and cultural development. The museum offers a comprehensive overview of Taiwan’s history, making it a valuable educational experience for visitors of all ages. Ahem, there are often busloads of students.

Qigu Salt Mountain 七股鹽山: This quirky landmark can be brushed aside as a giant salt pyramid, but it’s actually more like a gaudy billboard for the local salt industry. Adjacent to the distinctive landmark is a small museum that overviews the salt production process. It’s also an interactive educational experience, where visitors can see the salt fields and try harvesting salt. Is it worth it’s salt? Yes, it’s actually great salt.

BE SURE TO EAT

Tainan is known for its “small eats” delicacies and palate that skews sweet. Humble dishes are often served from street vendors or hole in walls on well worn plastic plates and bowls and costing no more than a few coins. Here are a few must-tries. Many are served at places throughout the city, some have famed shops that are particularly known for a dish. Others are common enough that you can find a decent version in many places.

牛肉湯 (beef soup): Actually a breakfast food, the simply named beef soup is proof that simple is often best. Thinly sliced raw fresh (as in never frozen) beef is placed in a bowl and covered with hot broth. The flavor is delicate yet has depth (when done right). It’s often paired with thinly sliced young ginger and other seasonings and condiments to adjust to your tasting.

米糕 (mi gao): 米糕 is a traditional delicacy made from glutinous rice and various ingredients, such as dried shrimp, mushrooms, and peanuts, steamed together to form a savory sticky rice (usually in a cup form). It is usually served with minced pork and fish floss (the cousin to the more famous pork floss).

擔仔麵 (dan zai mian): A popular Tainan noodle dish, 擔仔麵 features thin, al dente noodles topped with minced pork, bean sprouts, and a savory sauce. This humble street food originated from food peddlers who carried the noodles on a shoulder pole (擔仔), serving them to hungry locals. It has become an iconic local dish, loved for its comforting flavors and affordable price. They are tiny bowls, not meant to be filling but a nourishing bite best paired with ample sides of “small eats” 小吃.

棺材板 (coffin bread): 棺材板 is a unique Tainan snack that consists of a thick slice of deep-fried bread, hollowed out and filled with a savory mixture of ingredients such as seafood, chicken, or vegetables in a creamy gravy. Its name, meaning “coffin bread,” originates from the rectangular shape resembling a coffin. It more or less tastes like a pot pie, but in toast form.

虱目魚湯 (milkfish soup): Tainan is renowned for its fresh and delicious 虱目魚湯, a clear soup made from the local specialty, milkfish, a nod to the city’s rich fishing heritage. The fish is simmered with ginger, garlic, and various herbs to create a flavorful and nourishing broth.

鍋燒意麵 (pot burn noodles): 鍋燒意麵 is a popular noodle dish that features thick fried noodles stir-fried with savory sauce, pork, cabbage, and other vegetables in a hot iron pot. The dish is cooked at high heat, creating a slightly charred and crispy texture on the bottom of the noodles, adding a unique flavor.

蝦仁飯 (shrimp rice): Tainan’s 蝦仁飯 is a simple yet delightful dish featuring succulent shrimp stir-fried with garlic and served over steamed rice. The dish highlights the freshness and natural sweetness of the shrimp, and it has become a favorite among seafood lovers in the city, like a parallel to the beloved minced pork rice national pride or shredded turkey rice of Chiayi.

古早味豆花(old school ice shops, dou hua): Tainan is home to charming old-school ice shops that serve silky-smooth 豆花 (dou hua), a delicate tofu pudding dessert. Topped with a variety of sweet toppings like red bean paste, peanuts, and tapioca pearls, this classic treat provides a refreshing and nostalgic taste of Tainan’s culinary heritage. Depending on the season you can get warm or with shaved ice.

And there are so many cute cafes. The millennial generation of Taiwanese people have a serious thing for aesthetic, instagrammable cafes, and this city is full of them tucked away in every nook and cranny, breathing new life into old homes and being a canvas for creativity for young baristas, bakers and entrepreneurs. Check Instagram to see where the cool kids are at and budget some time for an afternoon pick me up while you’re in town. (yes, like in Taipei, the cafes mostly open in the afternoon, and yes, they too often have time limits and minimum orders).

sample itinerary

DAY ONE

08:00 catch an early HSR from Taipei to arrive in Tainan in mid morning

10:00 drop off bags and then go grab a bite around Guo Hua Street

11:30 spend some time walking around the West Central District, stop by Snail Alley, Shennong Street, and visit Chikan Lou

16:00 take a cab over to Anping. make an obligatory visit to the fort, explore the “tree house” and walk around the old street. if it’s a clear day, catch the sunset on the waterfront

19:00 finish the day at the night market (look up which one is open as they change depending on the day of the week)

22:00 or maybe grab a nightcap at a cocktail bar

–

DAY TWO

08:00 wake up early and get beef soup for breakfast

09:30 do a peaceful morning walk around Tainan Wu Garden, then walk down to Thng Tik-Tsiong Memorial and take your pick of museums (if you can’t decide, just go to the Tainan Art Museum)

11:30 visit the Confucian Temple, and walk around the nearby shopping district

13:00 grab lunch at Du Hsiao Yueh, a Tainan classic

14:00 make your way down to Blueprint Culture Park, maybe sit down for coffee and a treat at a cute cafe in the narrow alleys and lanes of West Central District

16:30 go to Hayashi Department Store to pick up some souvenirs

18:00 grab a quick dinner near your hotel so you can grab your things after

20:00 HSR back to Taipei