WEEKEND TRIP

rhode island

a sweaty july weekend in rhode island

Summers on the east coast mean you’re supposed to leave the city. And go somewhere that fulfills the postcard image of a New England summer. Somewhere by the water. Somewhere charming.

Truthfully Rhode Island isn’t a state I often think about. But it delivered on the charm, even if the weather was not on our side. A low effort weekend trip just far enough away to scratch the itch of an escape.

A midday train from Penn Station on Friday was filled with largely Connecticut and Boston bound commuters, but we arrived in Providence in the early evening. Walked around Brown, got dinner nearby, and then walked along the river to Waterplace Park to see a partial lighting of WaterFire, a bizarre and yet I suppose endearing community art project that gives “small town” in the best way coming from a big city (where lets be real, water and fire show up in much more chaotic contexts).

Finished off the night with ice cream at Three Sisters. The first of many ice creams of this sweaty trip.

Saturday was extremely humid, but given the rainy forecast on Sunday, it was our best chance to go to Newport. So we set out in the morning for a quick drive down to exist on the coast with looming relics of generational wealth.

Cru Cafe

1 Casino Terrace, Newport, RI

The first thing on the agenda was brunch. Cru already had a line out the door by the time we got there, but service moved quickly enough, and the food was the kind of classic comfort food that is more than enough to hold you over into the afternoon (especially in this heat) without totally knocking you out for the day.

The Nitro Bar

404 Thames St, Newport, RI

Of course brunch was followed by a chaser of more coffee. Took a quick walk to local cafe chain Nitro for a fun drink for the road. Iced beverages are obligatory for walks on a hot day.

Cliff Walk

After finding a place to leave the car by the strange “campus” of Salve Regina University (it gives old money boarding school so hard??), we headed toward the hazy shore. The air was thick and the peeks of sun were unforgiving along the Cliff Walk. We were sufficiently sticky within minutes.

The views were 10/10 though. Water lapping along the rocks. Wild plants in full bloom along the pathway. Mansions dotting the coastline. It’s easy to see how this place was a haven for the elite of American society.

The tourists flowing in and out of estate grounds made it feel like a strange version of trick or treating. The Breakers is a star for good reason, and Rosecliff and the Marble House are belles of society, but we opted for the alternative choice of Gilded Age glamor.

Rough Point

680 Bellevue Ave, Newport, RI

I mean, the name had me sold. A ways down from the more “popular” mansion attractions, Rough Point was the former residence of heiress Doris Duke. Today, it’s open to the public as a museum maintained by the Newport Restoration Foundation.

First built in the 19th century, the English Baronial style mansion was expanded over the years and quite literally built for entertaining. Entering the large dining and parlor rooms preserved with the elaborate furniture and decor (not to mention pricey pricey personal collection art pieces) of the time, it was easy to imagine the parties that were had in these rooms.

My favorite part was of course the kitchen. Sure it’s the servants quarters, but to a deprived NYC resident that does not have generational wealth, this kitchen is the aspirational standard. Because just look. The windows. The open shelving and blue and white color palette and expansive “eat in” kitchen counter and walk in pantry.

Upstair the grand staircase, the second level had a few rooms, Ms. Duke’s um.. purple… bedroom and some other cozy guest rooms.

And then there’s the grounds. Lovely herb garden to one side, and then floral gardens on the other way. Camels throughout, an outlandish motif that feels oddly right.

In the back of the mansion, panoramic views overlooking the coast, neighboring mansions looking small in the distance.

Twist On Thames

489 Thames St, Newport, RI

Snack break. Cooled off at a tiny nostalgic soft serve shop with an impressive amount of flavors.

Fort Adams

80 Fort Adams Dr, Newport, RI

We still had some time to kill before dinner reservations, so we headed over to Fort Adams State Park, walking along the bay walk and watching the boats pass by on the hazy horizon. It was pretty quiet by early evening. The fort itself closed. Some parties happening on boats. Some people fishing. Most people wandering, enjoying the expansive views throughout the mini peninsula.

Castle Hill Inn

590 Ocean Ave, Newport, RI

We finished off the day with dinner at Castle Hill Inn, a picturesque hotel perched on the cliff, overlooking its namesake cove.

The bugs were thriving as people dressed in their summer best sat out on the lawn, cocktails in hand. The vibes, immaculate, albeit sweaty.

The outdoor restaurant was an upscale version of casual, or perhaps vice versa. It felt like patio dining at its finest (well, we could have done without the bugs that decided the join the experience). Even though the clouds had settled in by the time it was sunset, it felt the way summer should be. When it’s the end of a day, you’re tired from the heat. And you celebrate a summer birthday with a cold, spiked dessert.

Rain canceled all plans for the next day so Sunday was spent meandering from establishment to establishment. Brunch, coffee, beer, ice cream, another coffee, dinner.

Little Sister

737a Hope St, Providence, RI

Brunch was at Little Sister, a delightful Puerto Rican restaurant that somehow managed to feel sunny despite the rain outside. The food and vibes both checked out, and the pastries were genuinely better than they needed to be.

Bayberry Beer Hall

381 W Fountain St, Providence, RI

After a post-brunch coffee at Seven Stars Bakery, where it seemed like the entire town was also out for a coffee run, and no luck finding appealing rain-friendly activities, we did as many a young millennial would do: switch from coffee to alcohol. Bayberry is located in what seemed to be a fairly industrial part of the city, which felt fitting for a brewery type establishment. What was surprising was the number of full on families brunching inside. But even as someone who is very much not a beer person, I will validate that breweries make for excellent rainy day hangout spots.

Tricycle Ice Cream

70 Battey St, Providence, RI

Obligatory ice cream of the day was just a short walk from Bayberry. Tricycle is tiny but beloved, and for good reason. Their menu is filled with fresh takes on nostalgic favorites. Ice cream sandwiches, choco tacos and more.

Pickerel

3 Luongo Square, Providence, RI

By mid afternoon the drizzle had turned into a downpour and flash flood warnings were all over the city. We kept it easy, did some random grocery shopping, and then decided it was somewhat of an appropriate time to go to dinner. And despite the heat, the dreary weather made it feel like soup season. So we opted for ramen at Pickerel. The ramen was good, but the star of the meal was the cabbage salad piled up high and blanketed with a layer of shaved parmesan to look as pretty as a kakigori.

On Monday, our train was scheduled for early afternoon. So we grabbed some breakfast at a cafe (White Electric), picked up some banh mis for the road (Asian Bakery & Fast Food) and then parked up at a coffee shop near the train station to kill time before our train.

Of course, the Amtrak had different plans for us, delaying several times. But the absurd amount of time spent in the Providence train station aside, Rhode Island did well as a low key mid-summer getaway and the latest in my quest to explore more of the Northeast.

rhode island

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