a layover in amsterdam
8 hours, 24000 steps, on a crisp december day
december 2023
There’s something freeing about experiencing a city for the first time as a layover. Perhaps it’s because there isn’t much expectation. It’s so short it’s like a side quest. Whatever you accomplish is but an added bonus.
To me, the keys to a good layover are:
between 6 and 10 hours, long enough to not feel rushed, but not too long to exhaust you
land in the morning, take off in the evening, so you don’t have to worry about finding a hotel
an airport with easy public transportation into the city, ideally in under 45 minutes
My layover in Amsterdam was just a silly little thing I thought would be a fun. A pit stop on my way to Asia, the first time I transferred via Europe flying from the east coast. When in reality it was a trip booked in delirium amid a crazy month far too late for there to be more pleasant options available within budget. And after a brutal few weeks between Thanksgiving and the December holidays, I found myself at the airport frantically looking up things to do in Amsterdam while waiting to board.
I landed in Amsterdam in the morning, and running on no sleep and pure adrenaline, I proceeded to board a train going in the wrong direction. But after a quick (panicked) reroute, I found myself in the center of the city on a crisp morning. The cold helped wake me up.
I had no plans except for a vague sense of the walkable neighborhoods I could wander. My day was limited only by my own two feet, and my travel fatigue.
I started off with a bite at Winkel 43, warm apple pie with cold whipped cream and a strong espresso to start the day off strong.
The city was still waking up, and as I walked more shops opened for business, more bikes wizzed by, and more tourists crowded onto the sidewalks. And the overcast morning made way for blue skies and the light warmth of winter sun.
It was hard not to stop at every corner to admire the picturesque canals and signature Dutch architecture. I took my time meandering my way back from Jordaan toward the Royal Palace, quaint houses turning into commercial streets and the grand architecture of the city center.
In the realm of European cities, Amsterdam isn’t the most festive for the holidays, but the Christmas trees and ornate lights did add some extra charm to the city, and a sense of seasonality. Which was much appreciated before I was to be (willingly and happily) immersed in a society where Christmas is but a fun theme for decor in Taipei.
By midday the city was alive. The stores bustling, the boutiques calling my name. I leisurely shopped around the cozy streets of De 9 Straatjes before eventually making it to a much more quiet Overtoombuurt. Of course, I had no sense of what each neighborhood meant. I was merely making my way (slowly, with many detours) toward Rijksmuseum.
But first, a coffee pit stop at Uncommon. Had there been open tables, I may have been tempted to sit down for a bite, but perhaps it was for the better that I kept walking to savor the daylight hours.
And a short walk later, there she was. The grandiose façade of Rijksmuseum. Had it been a gloomy day, I may have decided to spend an hour or two inside the museum, but given the beautifully sunny afternoon, I made my way through the arched entrance.
On the other side, I was pleasantly surprised to be in a large park. Lively with the buzz of a small outdoor holiday market. A large tree standing tall. And views of the city beyond. The afternoon sun hitting the back of the museum perfectly, gloriously lighting up the architectural embellishments.
It was tempting to linger, but as golden hour set in, I did a quick loop around and went back through to the front of the museum, slowly making my way back into Grachtengordel. Marveling at the buildings bathed in golden light.
With a couple hours left before I needed to head back to the train to take me back to the airport, I had the time to pop into various shops, hitting several bakeries to pick up some treats along the way.
There was a “peppernuts” store, with tiny cookies in so many flavors.
Picked up some fresh “koningsstroopwafels” which were not the beautifully dipped and decorated social-media darlings, but the most delicious treats.
Stopped by Hans Egstorf to get a small gift box of stroopwafels, and a pastry to snack on as I continued onwards.
And couldn’t resist popping into a bookstore. Athenaeum Boekhandel had a tantalizing selection of indie and art magazines and well stocked shelves of books of every genre.
As the sun sank lower, the golden hues turned into orange-red glows and in the shadows of dusk, the city lights began to turn on. By now I felt comfortable with the rhythm of this city that I had only just set foot in. The cobblestone, bridges, tranquil water of the canals and crowded streets that accommodated pedestrians, bikers and drivers all at once, felt familiar in a way.
The holiday decorations seemed even more magical lit up. Sparkling and adding a welcoming warmth to the rapidly cooling night, in that cozy winter way that December pulls off.
My last stop of the day was to grab a bite of dinner. I had a few necessary hours between me and my flight, so I stopped by an Indonesian takeaway spot near the train station. The rice and curries warmed me from within.
Then I said my final goodbyes to the city. The brief European detour before a very different Asian metropolis destination. Ironically, my first time in Europe since pre-pandemic. A no-stakes layover in a city small enough to get a little lay of the land over a few hours. With sore feet and a tired body, a long haul flight actually felt like an opportunity for rest.
I look forward to coming back someday, for a real visit.
see also
48 HRS IN BRUSSELS
SNAPSHOTS FROM REYKJAVIK